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A model took a stand against Gucci's use of straitjackets on the runway while walking in the brand's show

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ayesha tan jones

A model took a stand against Gucci's newest styles while modeling in the brand's Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show on Sunday.

Ayesha Tan-Jones stepped out on the runway during Milan Fashion Week wearing a white pantsuit from Gucci. While their ensemble looked like an oversized work uniform, other garments seen during the show resembled straitjackets.

In protest of the latter garments, Tan-Jones held up their hands during the show, revealing the words "mental health is not fashion" written in pen.

ayesha tan jones

On Instagram, Tan-Jones shared a video of themselves on the runway, as well as a statement about their protest.

"I chose to protest the Gucci S/S 2020 runway show as I believe, as many of my fellow models do, that the stigma around mental health must end," Tan-Jones wrote. 

"As an artist and model who has experienced my own struggles with mental health, as well as family members and loved ones who have been affected by depression, anxiety, bipolar, and schizophrenia, it is hurtful and insensitive for a major fashion house such as Gucci to use this imagery as a concept for a fleeting fashion moment," they continued.

STATEMENT for my protest of the @gucci show ✊🏽 MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION

A post shared by YaYa Bones (@ayeshatanjones) on Sep 22, 2019 at 8:23am PDT on

Gucci says it used the straitjackets to make 'a statement' and doesn't intend to sell them

While the brand did not directly respond to Tan-Jones, Gucci did share its own statement on Instagram.

"Uniforms, utilitarian clothes, normative dress, including straitjackets, were included in the Gucci S/S 2020 fashion show as the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it," the brand wrote.

"These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold," the brand continued. "Alessandro Michele designed these blank-styled clothes to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression."

"This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity," Gucci said. "The Creative Director's antidote is seen in the Gucci Spring Summer 2020 lineup of 89 looks. He has designed a collection that conveys fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity."

Uniforms, utilitarian clothes, normative dress, including straitjackets, were included in the #GucciSS20 fashion show as the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it. These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold. @alessandro_michele designed these blank-styled clothes to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression. This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity. The Creative Director’s antidote is seen in the Gucci Spring Summer 2020 lineup of 89 looks, he has designed a collection that conveys fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity. #AlessandroMichele

A post shared by Gucci (@gucci) on Sep 22, 2019 at 11:25am PDT on

Read more: People are outraged after a fashion brand made Columbine and Sandy Hook-inspired hoodies with rips that look like bullet holes

Speaking to the New York Times, Gucci's creative director Alessandro Michele said he wanted the Spring/Summer 2020 collection to show how "Gucci can be the antidote" to restricted individuality.

"I wanted to show how society today can have the ability to confine individuality and that Gucci can be the antidote," Alessandro told the New York Times. "For me, the show was the journey from conformity to freedom and creativity."

"Uniforms, utilitarian clothes, such straitjackets, were included in the fashion show as the most extreme version of restriction imposed by society and those who control it," he continued. "These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and part of a performance." 

The New York Times also reports that because the fashion show "was partly about freedom," the brand "felt the model should be free to protest."

gucci straitjacket

When asked for comment, representatives for Gucci referred Insider to its Instagram page, as well as Michele's interview with the New York Times. Representatives for Ayesha Tan-Jones did not immediately respond to Insider's request for comment.

Join the conversation about this story »

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Gucci designed a leather anklet with ‘lipstick bullets’ and the brand is under fire because it resembles a house arrest ankle monitor

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Gucci leather ankle bracelet

  • Italian designer Gucci is facing criticism for another look — an anklet that resembles an ankle monitor, or an ankle holster, with golden bullets attached to it.
  • The leather anklet was featured as an accessory at a Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week in September. The "golden bullets" attached to it were actually Gucci Beauty lipsticks.
  • Some people on Twitter were quick to pick up on the anklet's resemblance to the house arrest device.
  • Gucci was also recently criticized for sending models down the running in coats resembling straight jackets. The fashion brand also came under fire for selling an $800 turban critics deemed culturally appropriative, and a $900 sweater that some said resembled blackface.
  • Visit Insider's homepage for more stories.

Italian designer Gucci is facing criticism over another controversial look, this time an anklet that resembles a house arrest ankle monitor.

The leather anklet was featured as an accessory during Gucci's Milan Fashion Week show this past September. The "golden bullets" attached to it were actually Gucci Beauty lipsticks, which were also attached to arm cuffs, according to The Hollywood Reporter.

Some were quick to pick up on the anklet's resemblance to the house arrest device.

Gucci was recently criticized after models were sent down the runway in straitjacket-like coats. One model, Ayesha Tan-Jones, took a stand against the fashion label by writing "Mental health is not fashion," on their hands as they went down the runway.

 

"These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold," the brand said in a statement in response to the incident. "Alessandro Michele designed these blank-styled clothes to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression."

"This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity," Gucci continued in the statement.

 

Gucci blackface sweater

In February, the brand apologized after releasing a $900 sweater that appeared to some as blackface. And in May, the fashion brand roiled the Sikh community with an $800 turban. The turban is considered one of the five critical "articles of faith" in the Sikh community, and Sikh's accused the luxury brand of belittling their faith

Join the conversation about this story »

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The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

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louis vuitton

Marketing consulting company Interbrand has released its list of 2019's top global brands. The ranking revealed that for the second consecutive year, luxury and retail comprise the fastest growing sector — outpacing even technology — with an average growth rate of 11%. 

In order to estimate a brand's valuation, Interbrand analyzes the financial performance or services of a brand, the role a brand has in purchase decisions, and a brand's competitive strength compared to other brands within its sector.

As result, the analysis found that the top nine luxury companies have a combined brand value of roughly $117.784 billion. 

The top luxury brand in the world is Louis Vuitton, with a $32.223 billion brand valuation and 14% year-over-year growth. In addition, Gucci was noted as being the fastest growing luxury brand in the world, with a growth rate of 23%. 

Keep reading to find out which brands dominated the luxury sector this past year.

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9. Prada

Prada has a $4.781 billion brand valuation, but decreased by 1% year-over-year. It was No. 100 on the overall list of best global brands in 2019 across all industries.

Source: Interbrand



8. Burberry

Burberry has a $5.205 billion brand valuation and had a 4% growth rate. It was No. 96 on the overall list of best global brands in 2019 across all industries.

Source: Interbrand



7. Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co., ranked No. 94 this year in the overall list of global brands across all sectors, has a brand valuation of $5.335 billion but had a -5% growth rate when compared with its value in 2018, when it ranked No. 83 among all global brands.

Source: Interbrand



6. Dior

Dior, ranked No. 82 this year among global brands in all sectors, has a $6.045 billion brand valuation and saw a 16% growth rate. 

Source: Interbrand



5. Cartier

Though Cartier dropped one spot in the overall ranking of all industries' brands (from No. 67 in 2018 to No. 68 this year), the company's growth didn't decline. Cartier has a $8.192 billion brand valuation, with a 7% growth rate.

Source: Interbrand



4. Gucci

Gucci (the 33rd most valuable global brand in all sectors) has a $15.949 billion brand valuation and saw 23% growth, making it the fastest growing luxury retailer. 

Source: Interbrand



3. Hermès

Coming in at No. 28 on the overall list of global brands, Hermès has a $17.92 billion brand valuation, with 9% growth. 

Source: Interbrand



2. Chanel

Chanel, No. 22 on the ranking of most valuable brands worldwide, has a $22.134 billion valuation, with 11% growth. 

Source: Interbrand



1. Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton has a $32.223 billion brand valuation, with 14% growth. This makes Louis Vuitton the most valuable luxury brand in the world; it was also the 17th most valuable brand worldwide across all sectors.

Source: Interbrand



Only 2 companies have ranked among the most valuable luxury brands in the world every year since 2000 — Gucci and Louis Vuitton

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Gucci

Out of all the luxury companies in the world, only two have remained among marketing and consulting firm Interbrand's annual ranking of the world's most valuable brands since 2000: Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

The two brands may seem quite artistically and aesthetically different, with their stories only united under the premise of a founder's dream. But it has been this dream that has been able to grow and last decades, stretching into the 2000s, where they both have retained spots as the top luxury brands in the world.

Gucci's growth over time

Gucci Interbrand

Gucci (the 33rd most valuable global brand in all sectors) has a $15.949 billion brand valuation, as calculated by Interbrand, and saw 23% growth this year, making it the fastest growing luxury retailer.

Interbrand highlighted Gucci's internal commitment to the brand, responsiveness in evolving the brand to adapt to market changes and challenges, and its continued relevance in fitting consumers' wants and needs as the three "top-performing factors" to have helped its growth and continued success.

Louis Vuitton's growth over time

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, which is part of the LVMH group of luxury brands headed by billionaire Bernard Arnault, has a $32.223 billion brand valuation, as calculated by Interbrand, with 14% growth. This makes Louis Vuitton the most valuable luxury brand in the world; it was also the 17th most valuable brand worldwide across all sectors.

Interbrand highlighted Louis Vuitton's internal commitment to the brand, responsiveness in evolving the brand to adapt to market changes and challenges, and its consistency of experience as the three "top-performing factors" to have helped its growth and continued success.

Gucci vs. Louis Vuitton brand valuation changes over time

Gucci vs Louis V

According to Interbrand, not even Chanel (nor Hermès, Burberry, Prada, Fendi, or Cartier) has been ranked as a top global brand every year since 2000. However, speaking to Business Insider, Robins noted the "unique trajectory" of Hermès, which she terms a "meta-luxury brand," and how it has consistently risen in valuation since its entry onto the best global brands ranking in 2003.

SEE ALSO: The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

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16 unbelievable 'luxury' items that actually exist, from a $7,650 Hermès trash can to a $10,000 Dolce & Gabbana stove

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Swarovski baby bath tub

Toothbrushes, dog collars, trash cans, and fire extinguishers are all standard products that ultimately have no indulgent or elaborate qualities.

But if you plate them in gold? Or slap a designer name on them? They'll positively drip with extravagance; they'll become luxury items.

With the holiday season quickly approaching, Business Insider rounded up a few over-the-top luxury items that are currently on the market, including a $920 Louis Vuitton keychain and a $7,650 Hermès waste basket, among other ordinary-yet-fancified objects.

Note that this list is only a small sampling of the exhaustive luxury market. It's organized in ascending order of price.

SEE ALSO: The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

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A single Saint Laurent branded condom is currently selling for €2 (or just over $2). The foil comes in multiple designs, including zebra print and leopard print.

Standard, non-designer condoms typically cost well under $1 when bought in larger packages, according to Planned Parenthood.

Source: Saint Laurent



A Goop-approved 1.2-ounce bar of dehydrated caviar wrapped in gold foil costs $99.

Source: Business Insider, Calvisius



A Mercedes-Benz branded dog collar will set you back €99.90 (or roughly $110).

Source:Mercedes-Benz



A Swiss luxury dental company called Swiss Smile released a fancy $119 toothbrush and toothpaste combination set. The toothpaste is said to contain 23.75 carat gold dust while the toothbrush is plated with real gold.

Source: Neiman Marcus



Another personal grooming luxury item is a famous $240 English hairbrush. The Mason Pearson hairbrush is handmade and has "premium-grade boar" bristles.

Source: Business Insider, Nordstrom



Prada is currently selling a single luxury paperclip. It retails for $240 and is meant to be used as a money clip.

Source:Prada



Another outlandish, Goop-approved holiday gift is a $250 handcrafted brass fire extinguisher.

"Because yes, even something as practical and purposeful as say, a fire extinguisher, can skew sexy," writes Goop in the product description.

Alas, the brass fire extinguisher is currently sold out. However, the copper and chrome models (each selling for the same price as the brass version) are still available.

Source: Business Insider, Goop



Burberry is selling a $320 cotton bucket hat. While it may look like any beach hat meant to simply protect your face from the sun, the seam is Burberry-branded.

Source:Burberry



Louis Vuitton just released a $920 holiday-themed keychain and "ski bag charm." It features a skiing wooden figurine wearing a mink fur coat. And yes, that's real mink.

Source:Louis Vuitton



Even umbrellas can become a luxury item. Dolce & Gabbana created an umbrella with an eagle head handle that retails for $1,395.

Source:Farfetch



In the market for a baby gift this holiday season? How about a handmade-to-order miniature bathtub, encrusted with 8,600 Swarovski crystals? The customized creation costs $5,200.

The company that handcrafts these tubs offers them in "every color on the Swarovski color pallette" and suggests that they can also be used for pets or as an elaborate ice bucket at parties.

Source: The Diamond Bathtub



You can find hat boxes on Amazon for under $30, but a new Gucci hat box with floral imagery layered over Gucci's signature print retails for $5,800.

Source: Amazon, Gucci



Why gift anyone an iconic Hermès scarf when you can splurge on Hermès home decor — like this $7,650 solid maple wood waste basket — instead?

Source: Hermès



A customized, hand-embossed Monopoly board from a London-based luxury game-maker costs between £3,865 and £11,680 ( roughly $5,000 to $15,000), depending on customization options, and includes sterling silver playing pieces.

Source: Geoffrey Parker



A Smeg x Dolce & Gabbana stainless steel range from the collaboration's Divina Cucina Collection currently retails for $10,000. The home appliance collection also includes an $850 4-slice toaster and a tiny $1,500 espresso machine.

Source:Neiman Marcus



A $75,000 sterling silver and 24k gold chess set from Tiffany is listed as an "Everyday Object" on the jewelry giant's website — alongside a $490 protractor and a $700 set of two ping pong paddles made from leather and walnut.

Source:Tiffany & Co.



French luxury stocks are diving after Trump threatens $2.4 billion in tariffs on Champagne and handbags

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Kylie Jenner Birkin Bag purse Closet

  • French luxury stocks dropped on Tuesday after US President Donald Trump threatened to slap tariffs on $2.4 billion worth of wine, cheese, handbags, cosmetics, and other French exports.
  • LVMH, Christian Dior, and Kering dropped about 2%, while Hermès slumped 2.6%, wiping a combined $9 billion from the four companies' market capitalizations.
  • The Trump administration proposed the tariffs in retaliation to France's new digital services tax, which is set to take a 3% bite out of the French revenues of US tech titans such as Apple, Google, Amazon, and Facebook from the start of next year.
  • View Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

French luxury stocks dropped on Tuesday after US President Donald Trump threatened to slap tariffs on $2.4 billion worth of wine, cheese, handbags, cosmetics, and other key exports.

Shares in LVMH, the luxury titan behind Louis Vuitton and Moët & Chandon, slid about 2%. Christian Dior and Kering— the owner of Gucci and Balenciaga — suffered similar declines. Hermès, the maker of Birkin and Kelly handbags, slumped 2.6%.

Trump's tariffs would dramatically increase the costs to the companies of importing products made in France into the US, disrupting their operations and eating into their profits.

The stock drops wiped a combined $9 billion from the four companies' market capitalizations. Shares in French cosmetics titan L'Oréal and Elior, a commercial catering group, also fell on the news.

The US Trade Representative proposed the fresh tariffs in retaliation to France's new digital services tax, which is set to go live at the start of next year. In its view, the 3% tax on digital-service revenues earned in France — which applies retroactively — discriminates against US companies, doesn't accord with international tax policy, and creates a significant burden for American tech titans such as Apple, Google, Amazon, and Facebook. 

France's finance minister called the threatened tariffs "simply unacceptable," and threatened a "strong European riposte" if the Trump administration pulls the trigger on them.

Join the conversation about this story »

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Gucci's owner reportedly held talks to buy Moncler in a potential $12 billion deal

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Moncler

  • The luxury giant behind Gucci and Balenciaga held talks to buy Moncler in a potential 10.9 billion euro ($12 billion) deal, according to Bloomberg.
  • Senior executives at Kering and the Italian ski wear maker held "preliminary discussions about a combination," but there's no certainty a merger will happen, Bloomberg reported.
  • Moncler's chairman and CEO, Remo Ruffini, will be a key factor in whether a deal is struck.
  • View Business Insider's homepage for more stories. 

The luxury giant behind Gucci and Balenciaga held talks to buy Moncler in a potential 10.9 billion euro ($12 billion) deal, according to Bloomberg.

Senior executives at Kering and the Italian ski wear maker held "preliminary discussions about a combination," but there's no certainty a merger will happen, Bloomberg reported, citing people familiar with the matter.

Moncler's stock soared about 11% on the news, raising its market capitalization to around $11.1 billion ($12.3 billion). Its shares have now jumped about 44% in the past year.

Kering will need to win over Moncler's chairman and CEO, Remo Ruffini, for a deal to be struck, Bloomberg added. Ruffini is the group's biggest shareholder with a stake of about 23%.

"Moncler is clearly an attractive target," said Ben Kelly, a merger arbitrage analyst at Louis Capital in London, in an email. "It is highly profitable, has less Hong Kong exposure than rivals and would benefit from brand expansion away from its core apparel products and coats."

Kelly pointed out that Ruffini dismissed the idea of a sale in an interview with the Financial Times in April.

"No one has asked me to buy," Ruffini said. "We are in a good moment. I would like to see what happens in the next three, four years. It would seem to me a shame to be selling now. And anyway, I am not ready to retire."

Ruffini would likely seek an offer at the top end of Moncler's historical valuation range, Kelly said. He floated a potential price of 48 euros a share, representing a premium of 24% to Moncler's closing price on Wednesday.

"Ultimately, it comes down to Mr Ruffini and what role or not he could play in a combined business," Kelly said. "That's anyone's guess at the moment."

News of the deal talks comes shortly after LVMH — the owner of Louis Vuitton, Moët & Chandon, and other luxury brands —agreed to acquire Tiffany & Co for $16.2 billion, marking the sector's largest-ever deal.

Join the conversation about this story »

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You may soon be able to get your hands on these limited-edition Gucci-branded Snapchat Spectacles

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snapchat spectacles x gucci

Snapchat has joined forces with the director behind cult film "Spring Breakers" to produce a limited-edition, Gucci-branded pair of its newest smart glasses.

Spectacles 3, Snapchat's new $380 smart sunglasses, have gotten a makeover thanks to Snapchat's collaboration with Gucci and move director Harmony Korine. The design across the Spectacles, its charging case, and the box the glasses come in are decked out in Gucci logos and super-saturated colors, something that Korine is known for in his film productions.

snapchat spectacles x gucci

The reason for the unlikely partnership isn't entirely clear, but the Gucci-branded Spectacles were created for the Art Basel exhibition currently taking place in Miami Beach, Florida. Korine is putting on an exhibit at this year's event, where he's showing off a short film he made with the Gucci-branded Spectacles 3.

The result is a video called "Duck Duck," heralded by Snapchat as an "experimental short film" that "transforms Miami into an unbridled dreamscape of sound and color." In reality, "Duck Duck" is a four-minute compilation of trippy clips showing off Spectacles 3's augmented reality filters and 3D effects applied to odd scenes featuring two dancing pandas and a guy in a hot dog costume.

As I wrote in my review of Spectacles 3, I've found that these much-hyped 3D filters for Spectacles have been a major letdown. The effects' limited capabilities demonstrate that there's still a long way to go before they become a major selling point for Snapchat Spectacles.

While there are only 10 filters currently available on Spectacles 3, Snapchat says it's working on more, including some made possible by the collaboration between Snapchat and Gucci.

If you're intrigued by the Korine-inspired Spectacles 3, these limited-edition glasses are unfortunately not available for sale to the general public. However, Snapchat told Business Insider that people may be able to get their hands on the colorful smart glasses at a later date.

"While the sunglasses are not for sale, we are exploring ways in which these can be made available in the future," a Snapchat spokesperson said in an email. "Stay tuned!"

SEE ALSO: I brought Snapchat's new $380 smart glasses on a trip to London, and their biggest selling point was a major letdown

Join the conversation about this story »

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The 15 richest people in the fashion industry, ranked

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arnaults rihanna lvmh fenty

Fashion is a $2.5 trillion global industry that has made its leading players, from designers and CEOs to founders and heiresses, very rich.

Business Insider has compiled a list of the richest people in the fashion industry, based on Forbes' Real Time Billionaires ranking — and the top 15 are worth a combined $395.6 billion.

The wealthiest person in fashion is Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, the world's largest maker of luxury goods that's behind brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dom Perignon, Christian Dior, and as of November 2019, Tiffany & Co. Arnault is the world's third-richest person with an estimated net worth of $105.7 billion.

Others on the list include Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, the Japanese billionaire behind Uniqlo, and the Spanish retail mogul who owns Zara.

Read on for the 15 richest people in the fashion industry, ranked in ascending order.

Bobbie Edsor contributed to an earlier version of this story.

SEE ALSO: Bernard Arnault is the world's third-richest person and CEO of LVMH, which just finalized a deal to buy Tiffany. Here's how the French billionaire makes and spends his $100 billion fortune.

NOW READ: The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

15. Ding Shizhong: $5.8 billion

Ding Shizhong is the chairman and CEO of Anta Sports, one of China's largest sportswear makers.

Anta Sports, which owns brands including Fila, Descente, and Kingkow, made more than $3.4 billion in revenue in 2018.



14. Johann Rupert: $6.1 billion

Johann Rupert is the chairman of Compagnie Financiere Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods firm behind brands such as Cartier, Chloé, and Montblanc.

The South African billionaire founded Richemont as a spin-off of Rembrandt Group Limited (now Remgro Limited), a company founded by his father in the 1940s.



13. Sandra Ortega Mera: $6.6 billion

Sandra Ortega Mera is the daughter of Zara founder Amancio Ortega with his late ex-wife, Rosalia Mera.

Sandra inherited the title of Spain's richest woman after her mother's death. Sandra holds a roughly 4.5% stake in her father's company, Inditex, but she is not involved in the company, according to Forbes.



12. Ralph Lauren: $6.7 billion

The founder and former CEO of the eponymous American luxury fashion brand Ralph Lauren remains executive chairman of the label he started in the 1960s.

Lauren started designing neckties with a wider cut — branding them the "Polo" cut — and selling them in New York department stores while also working at the men's boutique Beau Brummell.

More than 50 years later, the internationally renowned brand brought in more than $6.1 billion in revenue in 2018.



11. Anders Holch Povlsen: $8.1 billion

Anders Holch Povlsen is the CEO and sole owner of Danish fashion retailer Bestseller. Povlsen's parents started the company in 1975 and he was only 28 when his father, Troels Holch Povlsen, made him the sole owner of the company in 1990.

Bestseller is the parent company of 11 fashion labels that include Vero Moda, Only, and Jack & Jones.

Povlsen, who is the richest person in Denmark, also has "significant stakes" in online clothing retailer ASOS and payments company Klarna, according to Forbes.

In April 2019, three of Povlsen's four children were killed in the Easter Sunday bombings in Sri Lanka that left at least 290 people dead.



10. Giorgio Armani: $11 billion

The cofounder and sole owner of the Armani empire, Giorgio Armani's luxury fashion house has ventures in haute couture, sportswear, beauty, restaurants, interior design, hotels and resorts, and ready-to-wear fashion, among others.

The Italian-born fashion designer founded his company in 1975 after leaving medical school early. Now, Armani is often dubbed one of the most successful Italian fashion designers in history, with revenue of $2.3 billion in 2018, according to Bloomberg.

Armani owns a 213-foot jet-black superyacht and has homes in Italy and the Caribbean.



9. Heinrich Deichmann: $11.5 billion

Heinrich Deichmann is the CEO of international shoe manufacturer Deichmann, founded by his grandfather as a cobbler's shop in Germany in 1913. 

Deichmann's reputation for creating affordable footwear is ingrained in its history. The family company organized a second-hand shoe exchange scheme in order to help struggling customers after the war, according to the company's website.

Today, Deichmann has grown to become one of Europe's leading shoe retailers, with 3,989 stores in Germany, the US, and throughout Europe. 



8. Alain and Gerard Wertheimer: $16.6 billion

Alain Wertheimer co-owns the French fashion house Chanel with his brother, Gerard. Alain serves as Chanel's chairman while Gerard manages the company's watch department in Switzerland.

The Wertheimer brothers inherited the Chanel empire from their grandfather, Pierre Wertheimer, who founded the brand with Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1913. 

The Wertheimers are known as "fashion's quietest billionaires," according to The New York Times.

''We're a very discreet family, we never talk,'' Gérard Wertheimer told The New York Times Magazine in 2002.''It's about Coco Chanel. It's about Karl [Lagerfeld]. It's about everyone who works and creates at Chanel. It's not about the Wertheimers."

 



7. Stefan Persson: $18.8 billion

Chairman of best-selling fashion retailer H&M, Stefan Persson owns a 32% stake in the company. His son, Karl-Johan Persson, is the company's CEO.

H&M Group, which also owns brands like Weekday, COS, and Monki, brought in more than $22 billion in net sales in 2018, according to the company's annual report.

The Swedish fast-fashion business has about 4,900 stores in 73 markets.



6. Leonardo Del Vecchio: $24.7 billion

Leonardo Del Vecchio is the founder of eyewear giant Luxottica, which went on to acquire Sunglass Hut, Ray-Ban and Oakley and make glasses for brands including Chanel and Bulgari, according to Forbes.

Luxottica merged with French lens maker Essilor in 2018 to become the world's largest producer and retailer of sunglasses and prescription glasses.



5. Tadashi Yanai: $29.8 billion

Tadashi Yanai is the founder and owner of Japanese clothing empire Fast Retailing, the largest clothing retailer in Asia and the parent company of Uniqlo.

Yanai, the richest person in Japan, began his career at his father's roadside tailor shop in suburban Japan, according to Bloomberg. Yanai later changed the name of the company to Fast Retailing in the early 1990s in order to reflect his fast-fashion business strategy.

Yanai opened the first Uniqlo store in 1984 and has expanded the brand to more than 2,000 stores in at least 20 countries.

Fast Retailing has thousands of stores worldwide and reported a yearly revenue of $16.9 billion in August 2017, according to Bloomberg.



4. Francois Pinault: $35.1 billion

François Pinault is the founder and owner of Kering luxury group, which includes iconic fashion houses such as Gucci and Alexander McQueen. He's been married to Mexican-American actress Salma Hayek since 2009.

The French businessman and art collector also owns a plethora of auction houses, wineries, and French publications. He's the second-richest person in France after Bernard Arnault.

Since the beginning of 2019, Pinault's wealth has increased by more than $9 billion, according to Bloomberg's Billionaires Index.



3. Phil Knight: $38.5 billion

Phil Knight is the founder of shoe giant Nike. Knight, a former track runner, started the company that would become Nike with his college track coach, Bill Bowerman, in 1964.

Knight retired as chairman of Nike in 2016 after 52 years, according to Forbes.



2. Amancio Ortega: $70.7 billion

Amancio Ortega is the sixth-richest person in the world, according to both Forbes and Bloomberg's Billionaires Index. Ortega made his $70.7 billion fortune through the Spanish fashion retail group Inditex, which he founded with his ex-wife Rosalia Mera in 1975.

Ortega owns 59% of Inditex, the world's largest clothing retailer that owns Zara, Pull&Bear, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Stradivarius, and other brands.



1. Bernard Arnault: $105.6 billion

Bernard Arnault is the chairman and CEO of LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods company. The French billionaire is the third-richest person in the world, trailing only Bill Gates and Jeff Bezos.

LVMH is the parent company of 75 household names, including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Sephora, and Bulgari, and, as of November 2019, jewelry giant Tiffany & Co.

Arnault is growing richer at a faster rate than many other billionaires. Since the beginning of 2019, his fortune has risen by $34.3 billion, according to Bloomberg's Billionaires Index. 



A TikTok star is the new face of 74-year-old French fashion house Celine, and it shows how luxury brands are courting Gen Z

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On December 11, luxury brand Celine announced the new face of its latest fashion campaign via Instagram: 18-year-old Noen Eubanks, best known for his lip-sync videos on the popular social media app, TikTok. Eubanks has amassed more than 7 million followers on the platform, earning him the title of "teen idol," a designation Celine echoed in its Instagram post announcing the partnership. 

The brand's decision to partner with a TikTok star isn't surprising, given the app's ever-growing impact and reach.

Data analysis firms Business of Apps and Sensor Tower report that TikTok has been downloaded over a billion times since its launch three years ago and has 500 million global users — 66% of whom are under the age of 30. And as the fashion industry actively tries to court a younger generation of shoppers — whose wants and needs are vastly different from their older counterparts— fashion marketing was bound to follow where members of Gen Z are spending their time, in the hopes they'll also come to spend their money. 

Celine is not the first — and likely won't be the last — high-end brand to tap into TikTok

Celine follows other major companies like Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Guess that have used TikTok to promote their brand, signaling that the fashion industry at large is beginning to take the app more seriously in terms of its global reach to younger consumers. 

In June, Burberry created a TikTok account to coincide with its Thomas Burberry Monogram collection. On the social platform, the brand launched the #TBChallenge, which asked users to recreate the Thomas Burberry Monogram with their hands. As of the most recent count, Burberry's TikTok video has over 200,000 likes and over 4.5 million views. 

"It's important for Burberry as a brand to be where our consumers are, and we need to constantly be evolving what spaces we play in,"a Burberry spokesperson told Business of Fashion in June."We thought long and hard before launching on TikTok … We wanted something that felt really tapped into the space, and would be about a broader consumer education and invite people into our world."

In September 2018, Guesslaunched its #InMyDenim campaign on the social platform and promoted it with popular TikTok creators like Madison Willow, who has over 1 million followers on the platform, and @ourfire, who has 5.5 million. And in February, Calvin Klein made its TikTok debut with a #MyCalvins video campaign featuring pop star Shawn Mendes, actor Noah Centineo, model Kendall Jenner, and rapper A$AP Rocky.

"Lo-fi content featuring celebrities and influencers seems to resonate,"Marie Gulin-Merle, Calvin Klein's chief marketing officer, told Business of Fashion in June."We believe that the future is video-based."

Luxury retail could tap into a whole new market on TikTok

TikTok has been leaning into all the attention from the retail industry. Adweek reported in November that TikTok has begun rolling out "shoppable video content" open to "a select few influencers"— similar to the "Instagram Shopping" feature introduced in September — that allows users to buy directly from businesses within the app's interface.

But even as TikTok opens its doors to shoppable content, it seems many luxury fashion brands are still ambivalent about running through, with some even saying they wouldn't advertise on the platform at all. 

In an interview with Business Insider, millennial luxury eyewear designer Garrett Leight, whose frames are beloved by celebrities from Brad Pitt to Selena Gomez, said he has no plans to advertise on TikTok. Leight believes an influx of advertisements and marketing would "ruin" the fun of the app. "[Right now, TikTok is] just a place for endless silly content," he said. "So obviously somebody'll ruin it ... That's just the gentrification of the internet." 

If anything, there are many fashion brands who would do well on the platform. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and even Amazon Fashion have yet to advertise on the platform, but lead in search results. Louis Vuitton has nearly 137 million hashtag views, trailing behind Gucci's astounding 304 million and Amazon's 251 million.

SEE ALSO: The 9 most valuable luxury brands in the world

DON'T MISS: LVMH just agreed to buy Tiffany for $16.2 billion — here are 17 of the most iconic brands the French luxury giant already owns

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The future of fashion: 7 grants, fellowships, and scholarships funded by luxury giants for entrepreneurs who want to break into fashion and retail

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Fashion: It's often expensive to buy, and sometimes even more so to make. Luckily, these fashion brands and companies understand what fashion entrepreneurs go through, and have been more than willing to give back to those who are on their journeys to the top.

For example, LVMH — the largest luxury goods company in the world— created L'Institut des Métiers d'Excellence, a vocational and apprenticeship program that trains the next generation in fields such as jewelry making and culinary arts.

Earlier this year, Gucci launched two scholarships under its Gucci Changemakers Scholarship Program in North America: Gucci Changemaker Scholars and Gucci Changemakers x CFDA Scholars by Design Program, in partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, both of which seek to give $20,000 fashion scholarships to those from underrepresented areas.  

But they aren't the only ones preparing the next generation for the future of fashion. Business Insider rounded up seven grants, fellowships, and scholarships to be on the lookout for; the programs offer a combination of funding, networking, and exposure opportunities. Entries are arranged in increasing order of the size of the grants.

SEE ALSO: Glossier's new partnership with Nordstrom proves the luxury department store remains a favorite for e-commerce brands looking to dabble in brick-and-mortar, even as other high-end retailers flounder

DON'T MISS: LVMH just agreed to buy Tiffany for $16.2 billion — here are 17 of the most iconic brands the French luxury giant already owns

1. The LVMH Institut des Métiers d'Excellence

Who it's for: The LVMH Institut des Métiers d'Excellence is a vocational training program that promotes careers in traditional craftsmanship professions. The apprenticeship is for those who are between 16 and 30 years old, or for those who are over 26 and considered to be unemployed.

Type of program: Apprenticeship and vocational training

Compensation amount:Compensation is dependent upon the age of the apprentice, and increases each year. For the vocational training, payment is in accordance to age and qualification.

Number of positions available: There are 21 different training programs. The 2019 class comprised of 300 apprentices, each compensated per the guidelines stated above.

Length of program: The apprenticeships contracts can last from six months to four years. The vocational training can last six to 12 months (or 24 for certain professions). 

When it was founded: 2014

How it works: The program partners with various schools around Europe in jewelry, winemaking, couture, retail, designer, leather goods, watchmaking, culinary arts, and vineyards. Apprentices receive technical and theoretical education, along with experience at the various houses within LVMH. They are also given the opportunity to take foreign language classes and meet designers. The programs are located in France, Switzerland, and Italy. For instructions on how to apply, click here.

Notable winners: As written on the LVMH website, in 2018, 98% of the apprentices graduated from the program; 83% of those graduates found jobs in their chosen profession afterward. 

"The IME continues to achieve the objectives set when the program was launched: develop the employability of youth who are either unskilled or seeking to learn new skills, while passing on the invaluable savoir-faire of LVMH Maisons to new generations,"LVMH's website states



2. Kering Foundation Awards

Who it's for: Social entrepreneurs who, according to Kering's website, "have developed innovative ways to combat violence against women."

Type of program: Incubation program and mentorship

Grant Amount: The grant ranges from €5,000 - €10,000 (roughly $4,400 to $8,900) per person

Number of grants awarded: In 2018, seven recipients were chosen. 

Length of program: Six-month learning program with an innovation expert, in addition to a two-year mentorship with personnel from Kering. 

When it was founded: 2008

How it works: Grants have been awarded every two years since 2008. The next award class is set to be chosen in 2020. 

Notable winners: Jessica Ladd, founder of the nonprofit organization Project Callisto; Hera Hussain, founder of the volunteer network for gender-based violence, Chayn; Ly Ying, founder of the gender development center Yuanzhong. 

"These Awards, alongside partnerships with local NGOs and awareness-raising, are a fundamental part of [the] three pillars of the Kering Foundation's mission to end the violence that impacts 1 in 3 women worldwide,"Kering said in a press release."By enabling social entrepreneurs to strengthen their business models, the Kering Foundation's backing contributes to achieving sustainable change."



3. The Fellows Program at Tory Burch Foundation

Who it's for: The program is for women entrepreneurs who are at least 21 years old and own a majority stake in their business, in addition to managing it on a day-t0-day basis. The business has to be for-profit, and in the early stages (one to five years preferred). In addition, the business has to be operating in the United States, and have generated at least $75,000 in revenue in the past year.

Type of Program: Fellowship

Grant Amount: $5,000 per person

Number of grants awarded: Up to 50 each year, with 10 selected to participate in Pitch Day. 

How long it lasts: One year 

When it was founded: 2015

How it works: The program offers five days of workshops and networking. The website states that the program provides "the community of support you need to connect, learn, and grow your business." Fellows are also given the opportunity to pitch their businesses. Applications open in September

Notable winners: Sabena Suri, founder of the luxury product subscription service BoxFox; Nicole Baldwin, founder of the natural skincare line Biao; Sashee Chandran, founder of organic tea line Tea Drops.

"In the United States, nearly a fifth of all startups will fail their first year and almost half by year five,"said Laurie Fabiano, president of the Tory Burch Foundation, according to BizJournal."The Fellows Program provides the resources and network women-owned businesses need during this critical growth period."



4. Gucci Changemaker Scholarship Program in North America

Who it's for: The scholarship program provides scholarships to undergraduate students who have financial need and have an interest in the fashion industry.

Type of Program: Scholarship

Grant Amount: Up to $20,000 a year per student. Applicants can reapply each year. Deadline for 2020 is Tuesday, December 31st at 11:59 p.m.

How many are given out: 20 to 50 scholarships will be awarded.

How long it lasts: Up to four years 

When it was founded: 2019 

How it works: Applications are open for high school seniors and students attending an accredited four-year college or university. Preference will be given to those who live in Atlanta, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, New York, Philadelphia, San Francisco, Toronto, and Washington D.C. Preference also given to those attending or with plans to attend a Historically Black College and University. 

Gucci Changemakers also has a $20,000 diversity scholarship in partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America noted as the Gucci Changemakers x CFDA Scholars by Design Award. It is given to two high school seniors who have an interest in design, with eligibility for up to four years. Each receives a $20,000 scholarship per year for four years (up to $80,000 total).

Both scholarships are part of Gucci Changemakers Scholarship Program in North America.

NotableWinners: Program debuted in 2019 

"We have always believed in the importance of creating a more inclusive and diverse industry,"Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO of Gucci, said in a press release."We must invest in and empower the next generation of creatives, designers and leaders."



5. Liz Claiborne Design for Impactful Futures Scholar Award

Who it's for: In partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Liz Claiborne Design for Impactful Futures Scholar Award is awarded to an undergraduate junior. It serves to promote the next generation of fashion. It accepts those who specialize in areas such as womenswear, menswear, accessories, jewelry, textiles, and knitwear. 

Type of Program: Scholarship

Grant Amount: $25,000 per person

How many are given out: One per year

How long it lasts: Payment made in one lump sum

When it was founded: 2009

How it works: Those interested are required to design a Liz Claiborne fashion collection portfolio, as well as create a brand strategy. The design portfolio must include all phases of the collection's development, including basic business models and have a sampling of garments that would be used for the collection.

Finalists are selected to present their portfolio to the CFDA Selection Committee in New York. The deadline to apply is March 31, 2020. The CFA only takes school-endorsed applications for this scholarship. 

Notable winners: The 2019 winner was Isabel Holden from Marist College. For her portfolio, she told Marist that she designed 12 looks, some of which used garments from her local Goodwill store. In an email to Business Insider, Sara Kozlowski, director of education and professional development at CFDA, explained that Holden "worked with Marist's chemistry department to create a way to safely remove indigo dye from denim and then redye it."

"The prestigious scholarship celebrates the American legacy of Liz Claiborne as a design leader, creative entrepreneur, and pragmatic innovator of fashion while promoting the next generation of fashion's potential to power change and create sustainable futures," the CFDA said in a press release. "As the future of fashion, every choice you make in the design process comes with impacts- environmentally, socially, and ethically."



6. The Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award

Who it's for: The award is a partnership between Kenneth Cole Productions & the Council of Fashion Designers of America. It's given to those with an interest in design and social consciousness. The award is offered to those with an anticipated graduation date no later than July 2020 from an American, accredited, full-time degree program. 

Type of Program: Scholarship

Grant Amount: $50,000 per person

Number of grants awarded: Up to three per year 

When it was founded: 2016

How long it lasts: One year

How it works: In addition to the annual stipend, winners of the award are given the opportunity to work alongside Kenneth Cole Production's leadership teams in various different areas of the business. The deadline to apply is Monday, April 13, 2020, and the application must be endorsed by the school — meaning a chair, dean, or program director must approve it. 

Notable winners: The previous winner was Sloan Fox, from Kent State University. 

"Rich with mentorship, the Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award builds both conceptual and practical skills, while promoting creative consciousness and collaboration,"the CFDA said in a press release.



7. Levi Strauss & Company: The Levi Strauss & Co. Collaboratory

Who it's for: Each year, the theme of the Collaboratory focuses on "a different sustainability challenge facing the apparel industry." According to the website, this year, Levi Strauss & Co. selected "leaders who have inventive, tangible solutions for reducing the climate impact of the apparel industry in one of four areas: raw materials, product design, manufacturing or consumer use."

Type of Program: Fellowship

Grant Amount: Up to $50,000 per person

How many are given out: This year, 11 recipients were chosen

How long it lasts: One weekend in San Francisco

When it was founded: 2016

How it works: Fellows go to the Eureka Innovation Lab, where they are able to learn and take inspiration from apparel experts on the topic of sustainability, in addition to developing plans on how to reduce the climate impact of their business. For application updates, check back on their blog.  

Notable winners: Pauline Munga, founder and creative director of the ethical fashion company Home Abroad; Ryan Huston, founder and general manager of Huston Textile Company; Rebecca van Bergen, founder and executive director of the nonprofit organization Nest

"LS&Co. believes that climate change is one of the most important issues of our time and a critical challenge for the apparel industry,"Levi Strauss & Co. said in a press statement."Mitigating climate change and transitioning to a low-carbon, more circular future are vital to the health and well-being of the people who wear and make our products, and the future supply of raw materials needed to make those products. "



14 items from the Mickey Mouse x Gucci collaboration that are a Disney lover's dream

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Gucci's latest collaboration is a Disney lover's dream.

The Disney x Gucci collection is comprised of everything from T-shirts to sneakers adorned with Mickey Mouse's face. Bags and jewelry are also included in the line, as are watches and scarves. But rather than using typical product shots to showcase each item, Gucci hired photographer Harmony Korine to photograph the collection in Disneyland.

Here are some of the best items in the collection. 

The Mickey Mouse charm bracelet is perfect for fans who want to add a subtle Disney nod to their fashion.

Cost: $450

Find out more about the Disney x Gucci silver bracelet here.



For a bolder look, consider one of the Mickey Mouse wool cardigans.

Cost: $1,400 for the orange sweater, and $1,900 for the blue version

Find out more about the orange sweater here, and the blue sweater here.



The same print is available on hats and scarves.

Cost: $450 for the hat, and $550 for the scarf

Find out more about the wool jacquard hat here, and the wool scarf here.



There are numerous bags in the Disney x Gucci collaboration, but the smaller styles are arguably some of the best.

Cost: $1,150 for the belt bag, and $2,200 for the small shoulder bag

Find out more about the belt bag here, and the small shoulder bag here.



You can't go wrong with a Disney-themed Gucci scarf.

Cost: $495

Find out more about Disney x Gucci white silk scarf here.



Fans of classic Mickey Mouse cartoons will appreciate the collection's white shoulder bags.

Cost: $2,490

Find out more about the Disney x Gucci GG Marmont small shoulder bag here.



The collaboration line includes Gucci's classic logo T-shirts and sweatshirts adorned with Mickey Mouse.

Cost: $650 to $1,890

Find out more about the gray hooded sweatshirt here, the oversized T-shirt here, and the wool sweater here.



Sneaker fanatics will have a tough time choosing between the collection's six styles, though the Rhytons are the most unique.

Cost: $890

Find out more about the Rhyton sneakers here.



These two backpacks are perfect to bring on a trip to a Disney theme park.

Cost: $1,790 for the small backpack, and $2,390 for the medium backpack

Find out more about the small backpack here, and the medium backpack here.



Similarly, Disney x Gucci hats are ideal for sunny days in Disneyland or Disney World.

Cost: $390 for the baseball hat, and $430 for the bucket hat

Find out more about the Disney x Gucci baseball hat here, and the bucket hat here



Watches are some of the more luxurious options in the collection.

Cost: $1,650 for the brown watch, and $1,800 for the silver watch

Find out more about the 35mm Grip watch (brown) here, and the 38mm Grip watch (silver) here.



Other notable pieces from the collection include a Mickey Mouse swimsuit, denim jeans, and joggers.

Cost: $550 for the swimsuit, $1,100 for the jeans, and $1,450 for the joggers.

Find out more about the Disney x Gucci swimsuit here, the '80s denim pants here, and the loose jogging pants here.

To view the entire Disney x Gucci collection, visit the brand's website.



Louis Vuitton and Gucci are the only 2 luxury companies to consistently rank among the world's most valuable brands for the last 20 years. Here's how they grew to dominate the high-end retail sector.

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  • Gucci and Louis Vuitton are the only two luxury brands to have been ranked among the top global brands every year since 2000, according to a 2019 report by marketing and consulting firm Interbrand
  • But despite meeting at the top of the market sector, Gucci and Louis Vuitton had extremely different paths to the luxury summit.  
  • After years of stagnating sales, Gucci ended up as 2019's fastest growing luxury company with a brand valuation of $15.9 billion, according to Interbrand. 
  • Meanwhile, Interbrand ranks Louis Vuitton as the world's most valuable luxury brand. The company started off the century with a $1.7 billion lead in brand valuation over Gucci and has been on the rise ever since.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times — and in the luxury sector, only Gucci and Louis Vuitton can truly say they conquered both.

A 2019 report released by marketing and consulting firm Interbrand revealed that Gucci and Louis Vuitton are the only two luxury brands to have remained ranked among the world's most valuable every year since 2000— a feat not even achieved by other luxury giants like Burberry, Fendi, Prada, Hermès, or Cartier. 

Louis Vuitton — the world's most valuable luxury brand, per Interbrand's 2019 report — started the century with a $1.7 billion lead in brand value over Gucci, and at the turn of the 2010s, it was nearly $13 billion ahead of the Italian fashion house.

But today, Gucci is the world's fastest growing luxury brand, with a brand valuation of $15.9 billion — though it's still trailing behind Louis Vuitton's current $32.2 billion valuation.

Despite the difference, however, both Houses have held steady enough to remain at the top of the luxury sector, and their separate journeys also highlight the increasing competition between the conglomerates that own them — Louis Vuitton's parent company LVMH and Gucci's parent company Kering.

For decades, LVMH and Kering have been in the ruling class of luxury goods, and the trajectories of Gucci and Louis Vuitton may reveal why.

SEE ALSO: Only 2 companies have ranked among the most valuable luxury brands in the world every year since 2000 — Gucci and Louis Vuitton

DON'T MISS: LVMH just agreed to buy Tiffany for $16.2 billion — here are 17 of the most iconic brands the French luxury giant already owns

In the early 1900s, Guccio Gucci had an idea that would change the world.

The son of a craftsman, Gucci was born in 1881 in Florence, Tuscany. As a young man, he worked as a porter at the Savoy Hotel in London. It was there he fell in love with the intricate designs and craftsmanship of suitcases. 

So, upon returning to Florence, he founded the House of Gucci, a shop specializing in the manufacture of leather goods. It began by selling bags to horsemen in the 1920s, then later, moved into selling luggage.



In 1938, the Gucci shop opened on Via Condotti in Rome. Nearly a decade later, the Gucci logo was introduced, and soon after, the brand's famous red stripe was born.

Gucci, along with his sons Aldo and Vasco, created many of the brand's classic bags in the early 1950s and turned their store into a national staple. 

But it wasn't until after Guccio died in 1953, that the brand became an international emblem of luxury.

Source: WWD



After the founder's death, the Gucci family opened other stores around the world, including in Paris, London, and Tokyo.

The 1960s saw an increase in the brand's prestige and clientele. Gucci was welcomed and worn by the Hollywood elite, from Grace Kelly to Jackie Onassis Kennedy.

The jet-set era had been defined, and Gucci has since become a synonym for it.



But then hard times came, and it would be decades until the brand saw the height of its early glory days again.

In the 1990s, Tom Ford made Gucci synonymous with the word chic; the 2000s saw Frida Giannini define the brand as heritage. But it was Alessandro Michele, who, in the 2010s, once again made the brand synonymous with decadence



Long before Guccio Gucci was even born, Louis Vuitton — the founder of his namesake brand — had arrived in Paris and opened a luggage company of his own.

Hailing from the village of Anchay in France, Vuitton came to Paris in 1837 and was welcomed by a city in the midst of the Industrial Revolution. In 1854, he opened his first luggage store in the city, then moved the workshops to Asnières-sur-Seine, a commune northeast of Paris.



It was there that he and his craftsman created what is still regarded as one of the most iconic travel accessories of all time — the waterproof flat top luggage trunk.

At the time, flat trunk luggage was popular, but often attracted thieves. Vuitton is also credited with revolutionizing the luggage lock, putting a single lock system on his luggage, which is still in use today.



In 1896, the iconic LV monogram was introduced — nearly 50 years before Gucci's emblem was designed.

By the mid-20th century, Louis Vuitton luggage became a staple item for jet-setters, and the brand expanded into daywear, which saw the introduction of the iconic LV purse. By the 1990s, the brand was so successful that now-legendary designer Dapper Dan was able to make a fortune selling knockoffs to rappers.

Even wearing faux Louis Vuitton was a symbol of status.



In 1997, Marc Jacobs was tapped to be artistic director of women's collections at Louis Vuitton, and the brand was catapulted to the forefront of fashion's new era.

"[Louis Vuitton] is a testament to how you have to be a really strong brand with absolute clarity and conviction in who you are and what you stand for, internally and externally," Rebecca Robins, global chief learning and culture officer at the consultant group Interbrand, told Business Insider. "The stronger you have that, the harder and stronger you play with others, and that is why Louis Vuitton is the first to have ever hit the top 20 and top 100 and that's why its the only luxury brand to have stayed there."

As Vogue reports, Marc Jacobs made hat boxes popular and launched artistic collaborations that defined the late 2000s, introducing monogrammed umbrellas, tights, fans, and even fur muffs. The Louis Vuitton logo became recognizable around the world.



In 2013, Nicolas Ghesquière replaced Jacobs as the artistic director of women's collections. Ghesquière is now helping to lead the brand through a time where streetwear is the new jet-set, and tiny bags are the new trunk luggage.

But it seems no cultural turning point was too sharp for the company to surmount, as Louis Vuitton today ranks as the world's No. 1 luxury brand, with its brand valuation topping $30 billion, according to Interbrand.



In 1994, Tom Ford became creative director of Gucci, just three years before Jacobs took the helm at Louis Vuitton.

Both designers were considered game-changers while heading their respective brands and held their positions into the 2000s.



According to Interbrand, in 2000, Louis Vuitton had a brand valuation of $6.8 billion and maintained a steady-but-faltering single billion-dollar estimation until 2005.

By that time, Jacobs had launched many successful collaborations, including one with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, who, according to Vogue, is credited with creating the now iconic white and multicolored LV bag pictured above.



In 2004, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, Louis Vuitton opened stores around the world, including in New York City and Johannesburg.

The company also opened a store in Shanghai. In 2005, Louis Vuitton reopened its Champs-Élysée store in Paris. By the end of that year, the brand's value more than doubled to over $16 billion, according to Interbrand.



The brand grew steadily into the 2010s, reaching a $21.86 billion valuation in 2010 — the highest the company had ever been valued since Interbrand began tracking brand valuations in 2000.

During the first part of the century, Jacobs modernized and reworked the LV logo, featuring the monogram on everything from umbrellas to tights, in the hopes of making the brand a constant fixture in the minds of the world's next generation of buyers — the millennials.



Meanwhile, when the new century began, Gucci only had a brand valuation of $5.1 billion, which faltered until reaching its lowest value of $4.715 billion in 2004.

By 2005, Gucci had climbed back up to a valuation of $6.619 billion, but it was still nearly $10 billion less than where Louis Vuitton was around the same time, according to Interbrand.



Ford, as reported by CR Fashion Book, is credited as being Gucci's "savior." He was creative director from 1994 until 2004 and was known for helping to infuse a "sex appeal" that wasn't found in high fashion at the time.

But Ford stepped down from the brand in 2004, following a dispute with Kering — Gucci's parent company.

That same year, Kering took a 99.4% ownership stake in the label, up from the 67.6% stake it had the year prior.

Source: CR Fashion Book



After Ford's departure in 2004, Alessandra Facchinetti stepped in to lead the womenswear division, while John Ray took over menswear and Frida Giannini was named creative director of accessories, Vogue reports.

Giannini became creative director of the entire Gucci label in 2006, at which point she decided to focus on "heritage" and bring Gucci back to its roots.

Throughout her tenure, Giannini reimagined the brand's signature Flora print and redesigned some of their other classic fixtures. But her collections failed to garner consumer interestand received lukewarm reviews from her peers. Robins says this is probably due to leadership issues at the brand.

"Some of these brands expand three centuries; some of these brands are over two hundred years old," Robins told Business Insider. "[And] it's all about the strength of leadership and what that means for the brand .... If we are doing our jobs right, we are being guardians of those brands." 

Source: Vogue, Business of Fashion



As writer Kimberly Ong noted in her 2017 essay about the brand, Gucci had suffered a massive blow to its image during Giannini's time at the helm, which ultimately followed the brand into the 2010s.

"Gucci was associated with bad taste,"Ong wrote."It was associated with gaudiness and outdatedness, and ultimately [it was] unrelatable. No one wanted to buy Gucci, and the company faced near bankruptcy."



Giannini left Gucci in 2015.

Gucci's brand valuation had reached a peak of $10.385 billion in 2014 but fell to $8.882 billion in 2015, according to Interbrand.



Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, entered the 2010s with a $21.86 billion brand valuation.

Jacobs remained the artistic director of women's collections at Louis Vuitton until 2013, when Nicolas Ghesquière took over. Over at Gucci, Alessandro Michele was tapped to take Giannini's place when she departed in 2015



Ghesquière was then known for being the creative force behind the reinvention of Balenciaga.

At Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière launched the now-popular petite malle bag— which was the trunk luggage reimagined as a purse. And the bag quickly became sought after by consumers. 

Ghesquière also had Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Louboutin, Rei Kawakubo, and others each design a handbag for Louis Vuitton's 160th anniversary. The brand also collaborated with Jeff Koons for two collections.



In fall 2017, LV created a collection with Supreme — arguably one of the most profitable and influential fashion launches of the century.

Women's Wear Daily reported that following the Supreme launch, Louis Vuitton's revenue jumped nearly 21% to nearly $17.3 billion and accounted for a 19% jump in LVMH profits the following year to $20.59 billion. 

"[This collaboration] had a wider impact on the industry," Robins told Business Insider. "[We saw] this big shift in a greater openness, transparency, collaboration, [and] inclusiveness ... we've seen barriers broken down, we've seen collaborations on what is the next wave .... in some ways it was not unexpected. If anyone was going to be big on that, it would have been Louis Vuitton."



In 2018, Louis Vuitton appointed Virgil Abloh, founder and CEO of the popular streetwear brand Off-White, as the artistic director of its menswear collection.

Abloh's appointment made him the first African American to be named artistic director of a French luxury fashion house, according to the New York Times.



Interbrand reports that LV's brand value increased substantially between 2017 and 2018, from $22.919 billion in 2017 to $28.152 billion in 2018.

By 2019, the brand had jumped to a $32.223 billion brand valuation, making it the world's most valuable luxury brand, according to Interbrand.

Since then, the brand has been on a quest for (luxury) world domination. In January 2020, Louis Vuitton bought the second-largest diamond in the world, as Business Insider previously reported, in addition to launching a multiyear partnership with the NBA. It also announced plans to open up a restaurant in Japan.



Meanwhile, under Giannini's successor, Alessandro Michele, Gucci became 2019's fastest growing luxury brand, with a growth rate of 23% and a brand valuation of $15.949 billion — nearly double the valuation it had when Michele first took over the reins in 2015.

In 2017, Gucci grew 44.5%, Forbes reported, and had made up 39% of Kering's corporate revenues, and 57% of Kering's Luxury activities segment. In a 2017 interview with CNBC, Kering chairman and CEO Francois-Henri Pinault said that nearly 50% of Gucci's sales were coming from millennials. Today, Interbrand reports that number has jumped to more than 60%, with their fastest growing audience being Gen Z.



Much of Gucci's success comes from the way the brand has been able to utilize social media as a digital marketing tool.

On the internet, the new Gucci collections stand out — they've got a contemporary feel, mixed with vintage classics. Michele even brought back the interlocking GG logo and the iconic Gucci bags from the 1960s, while introducing consumers to the Dionysus buckle.



In fact, as reported by Forbes, Gucci's CEO Marco Bizzarri told the Julius Baer Global Advisory Board that Michele had designed nearly all of Gucci's best selling items.

By the end of 2017, Forbes reported that Gucci had a 130% increase in web traffic, surpassing that of Louis Vuitton.



Gucci has been able to appeal to younger audiences by teaming up with contemporary icons of the day.

Gucci has worked with people such as singer Harry Styles, photographer Petra Collins, and artists such as Sue de Beer and James Kerr.

In addition, Michele has collaborated with director Glen Luchford to create short music films, including 2017's "Soul Scene" campaign which featured only black models and was inspired by black youth around the world. At the time, New York Magazine noted that the music video was part of Gucci's quest to re-market itself toward this new generation, and "signifie[d] the brand's push for more culturally relevant and boundary-pushing advertising."



"[Gucci] has become much more open, inclusive, transparent, and collaborative," Robins said. "It's almost a masterclass in leadership style, [of] a really powerful combination of creative and business leadership."

In 2017, Bizzarri said that the brand now had a "Millennial Shadow Committee," consisting of people under the age of 35, who give feedback on the brand. At the WWD's Apparel & Retail CEO Summit in 2017, Bizzarri revealed that the shadow committee is given tasks of "either discussing the same topics that we discuss in the normal meeting with executives, or giving me ideas on different processes."



In turn, the "gaudiness" Gucci was once negatively associated with has become its signature. In 2019, Gucci sponsored the Met Gala, which had the theme "camp"— defined by Susan Sontag's 1964 essay as "love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration."

"The strength [is] in [Bizzarri and Michele's] working relationship and what that meant to not only consumers, but also to Gucci's employees," Robins told Business Insider. "I think that's been a really powerful shift in how the brand has shown up differently, both on the inside and on the outside."



Gucci is, as many would say, the modern day example of "camp." Or, to others, simply "ugly fashion."

In 2018, Gucci released a collaboration with designer Dapper Dan, inspired by the latter designer's life in Harlem and pieces from his 1980s archive. Ironically, the man who got his start selling knockoff Gucci and Louis Vuitton launched a successful collaboration with the former, nearly 30 years later.



And so now it's the turn of a new decade, and Gucci's snake logos, butterflies, wolves, interlocking G-tights, clashing colors, textiles, and fabrics — once considered emblematic of the brand's "outdatedness"— has become a signature of the time.

Through the use of successful digital marketing, Gucci finally became cool again — because, quite simply, they told everyone they were cool.

And then they proved it.



Gen Zers have a spending power of over $140 billion, and it's driving the frenzy of retailers and brands trying to win their dollars

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Barneys New York

  • Retailers and brands are still trying to figure out how to appeal to Gen Z, the generation that currently spans the ages of 7 to 22 and has a spending power of $143 billion. 
  • Business Insider spoke to industry experts about how companies can court this generation, whose spending habits and expectations vary substantially from older generations. 
  • "The prevailing cultural narrative often pegs Gen Z as a digital generation," said Jeremy Baker, chief technology officer and cofounder of Retail Zipline. "The reality is they care about connections and community."
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

It's no secret that the retail industry went through a shakeup in the last decade.

The 2010s alone saw the closure and bankruptcy of many iconic brick-and-mortar stores, including the once-beloved Henri Bendel, Payless Shoesource, Sports Authority, (briefly) Toys R Us,Victoria's Secret, and perhaps most notably, Blockbuster and Barneys New York

Most of these stores suffered from stagnating sales, while others struggled against the rise and popularity of e-commerce and online retailers, in addition to the changing tastes of the millennial and Gen Z cohorts. A study conducted by Influential— an artificial intelligence and social data company that connects influencers with brands — found that consumer technology and fashion retail were the top two areas that had substantial year-over-year increase in social mentions, with an 89% and 128% increase respectively.

For stores looking to connect with Gen Zers — who have a spending power of $143 billion and will account for about 40% of global consumers this year— it's clear that retailers and brands need to invest in researching how this new generation shops, even if it means disrupting traditional blueprints. One of the biggest issues for traditional retailers and brands to overcome will be the rise of more direct-to-consumer (DTC) and e-commerce brands, who are able to provide more of an intimate and personalized experience for shoppers. 

The secret to Gen Z marketing success

According to Influential's study, the top three fashion brands mentioned among Gen Zers are Vans, Adidas, and Nike. This is in line with data from consulting agency Interbrand, which listed Nike and Adidas as two of the top global brands in 2019, with a $32.3 billion and $11.9 billion brand valuation respectively. But they aren't the only brands who have successfully courted the younger generation. 

Gucci, for example, had great success in the last decade when it came to attracting Gen Z. As Interbrand reported, Gucci was 2019's fastest growing luxury brand, with a growth rate of 23% and brand valuation of $15.949 billion — nearly double the valuation it had when Alessandro Michele first took over as creative director in 2015. In addition, in a 2017 interview with CNBC, Francois-Henri Pinault (the chairman and CEO of Kering, Gucci's parent company) said that nearly 50% of Gucci's sales were coming from millennials. Today, Interbrand reports that number has jumped to more than 60% with their fastest growing audience being Gen Z. 

Gucci

To court younger generations, Gucci employed a "Millennial Shadow Committee" to help make decisions about the best way to connect with shoppers. The luxury brand also partnered with modern day icons such as pop star Harry Styles and photographer Petra Collins, and launched inclusive advertisements and collaborations, in addition to taking steps towards becoming a more sustainable company— all moves which appeal directly to younger shoppers. 

"This type of interactivity between a consumer and a brand that's more relational resonates as authentic rather than a brand that's presenting to you a product and selling it to you," Steve Mormoris, CEO and founder of Edge Beauty, told Business Insider. "Consumers have mobile phones in which they're able to interact with brands, but on a more frequent basis than 30 years ago where you would only interact with the brand when you saw [it on] television, and then the next day you walked into a store to buy it."

Nordstrom demonstrates a brick-and-mortar retailer's secret to success

On the retail front, Nordstrom has remained a popular destination for e-commerce brands looking to enter into the brick-and-mortar sphere. Brands like DTC beauty company Glossier, sustainable clothing company Reformation, and luggage company Away are popular with both millennials and Gen Z, and Nordstrom's partnerships with each allowed for the companies to be introduced to customers they otherwise might not have been exposed to. 

"People are not finding a deep degree of gratification or satisfaction going into a luxury department store anymore. And why that exactly is, I don't know,"Mormoris previously told Business Insider."I think a lot of it has do with people looking for physical spaces that make them feel comfortable and [where] there's some degree of intimacy in the shopping process."

Glossier Pop up

Pop-up shops have become the new favorite for various e-commerce and direct-to-consumer brands looking to create curated experiences for shoppers, rather than commit to the longterm, often impersonal feel, of a traditional retail shopping experience.

Though, to court younger consumers, it might be best for brands to focus less on pop-up experiences, and more on establishing a long-term presence — at least according to one study conducted by communication management company Retail Zipline, which found that many Gen Zers prefer longstanding retailers over pop-up shops. 58% of Gen Z respondents saying they would rather shop in stores with an established presence, compared to the 11% who preferred pop-up shops.

"The prevailing cultural narrative often pegs Gen Z as a digital generation that gets caught up by trends they see on social media," Jeremy Baker, chief technology officer and cofounder of Retail Zipline, said in a press release sent to Business Insider. "The reality is they care about connections and community — we know this because they prefer to shop in situations where they can chat with their friends, engage with store associates, and feel confident that their purchase decisions are supporting businesses that treat employees well."

Nordstrom's traditional brick-and-mortar setting, combined with the intimate experiences of a pop-up, has allowed for the retailer to establish itself as good partner both for brands and for shoppers.

Glossier Pop up

In 2013, the retailer launched its "Pop-In@Nordstrom" series, which showcases new pop-ups every four to six weeks. Oftentimes, the pop-ups sell exclusive-to-Nordstrom merchandise, Business of Fashion reported. In October 2019, CNBC reported that, in addition to working with Reformation and Glossier, Nordstrom has also worked with shoe retailers Allbirds and Birdies, jeweler Kendra Scott, and beverage company Dirty Lemon.

The industry's secret to longevity lies in appealing to both ends of the consumer spectrum

For traditional retailers and brands, their survival in this next decade will depend on their ability to engage young shoppers, according to Gensler, an architecture firm that designs retail stores. This means creating intimate experiences and personalized moments, in addition to establishing an authentic identity.

"On some level, all companies and all brands strive for this concept of authenticity," Mormoris told Business Insider. "The difference is today, people find authenticity in a messaging that tends to be relational rather than transactional. Very often, consumers like a brand that admits they make mistakes, that asks them to participate in the creation of the brand or is involved in charity giving or making the planet better."

But as the adaptation to appeal to the young goes into full effect, the industry must also not forget the still expansive spending power of Gen Xers and baby boomers. On January 5, The Guardian, citing research from the International Longevity Centre-UK, reported that ageism could cost the fashion industry over $14 billion in the next 20 years.

"Fashion and beauty brands have been ignoring their older customers for ages. Rather than trying to reach this savvy demographic, they prey on their insecurities and use fear and ageist propaganda to sell beauty products that promise the ridiculous and harmful ideology of 'anti-ageing',"Ari Seth Cohen, creator of the blog Advanced Style, told The Guardian. "There have been numerous beauty and fashion campaigns featuring silver-haired models, but I don't think brands have quite figured out what their older customers want and how to reach them."

SEE ALSO: 3 entrepreneurs at the helm of fashion and retail startups all say Instagram's decision to hide likes is 'for the greater good' — but it will inevitably disrupt how brand marketing works

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Gucci is opening a Beverly Hills outpost of its Michelin-starred restaurant in Florence — here's a look inside

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Gucci Restaurant LA

Gucci is set to open a restaurant on the top floor of its flagship store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, California, Joshua Levine of the Wall Street Journal Magazine reports.

The restaurant, Gucci Osteria, is the latest high fashion branded restaurant to open in the past few years, though it's not Gucci's first foray into the culinary sphere. The original Gucci Osteria is located on the famous Piazza della Signoria in the historic 14th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence, Italy

It was opened in 2018 by Gucci CEO Marco Bizarri, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele, and restaurant entrepreneur Massimo Bottura, who is the chef behind the highly acclaimed 3-Michelin starred restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy. (Gucci Osteria itself has one Michelin star.)

Alessandro Michele Gucci

Bizzarri told WSJ Magazine that after he and Michele joined Gucci in 2015, they had plans to close the Palazzo della Mercanzia because it was losing money. The two eventually came together and decided that opening a restaurant within the Palazzo would be a good decision. Bizzarri then called Bottura, who he has been friends with since childhood.

"We started thinking, 'OK, we should do a restaurant, maybe with Massimo. How can we try to plan that?'" Bizzarri told the magazine. "So I invited [Michele and Bottura] on a blind date for lunch. Neither one knew the other was coming. It was the most beautiful lunch ever because I didn't talk. They were talking with each other — we'll do this, we'll do that. The restaurant was born in this way."

Gucci Restaurant LA

Today, Gucci Osteria in Florence is part of what is referred to as the Gucci Garden, which also includes the Gucci Garden Galleria exhibition rooms as well as a retail store. The restaurant has been positively received, with a menu that boasts dishes such as purple corn tostadas and pork burns, and a €100 tasting menu.

It received one Michelin star in November 2019 — around the same time it was being reported that the dream team had already set their sights on a southern California offshoot. 

Hello, Beverly Hills

The idea for the restaurant in the Palazza della Mercanzia developed over a lunch. The idea for the Beverly Hills outpost, however, came about much differently. 

"I was in Los Angeles [and] Susan Chokachi [president and CEO of Gucci North America] was showing me the new store, which wasn't finished. I said, 'Susan, it's Rodeo Drive!' I called Marco," Bottura told WSJ Magazine. "I said, 'Listen, think about these three incredible places — Piazza della Signoria, Rodeo Drive, and maybe Ginza — the most amazing addresses you could have.' He said, 'OK'."

Gucci Restaurant LA

The Beverly Hills outpost will serve food with more American influences and have an aesthetic less Italian than that of the Osteria in Florence, Michele told WSJ Magazine. The idea is for the space to be much more open, with the lightness and colors reflecting more of the LA vibe. Bizzarri told the magazine that the food will come from California, with a menu that is more vegetarian and has more fish thanks to the proximity to the sea. 

"It's more to give a hug to the United States people," Michele said. "It reflects much more the Rodeo Drive attitude."

Gucci Restaurant LA

Bottura told the magazine that the trio does plan to open another Gucci Osteria in Ginza, Tokyo, though it will "probably be the last one" that they do.

"Of the four greatest cuisines in the world, French and Chinese are similar — sauces, ingredients, technique — and Japanese and Italian are similar — obsession about the quality of the ingredients and technique just to let the ingredients express themselves," Bottura said. "That's the philosophy."

The new restaurants are just the latest step in Gucci's success story. As previously reported by Business Insider, Gucci was 2019's fastest growing luxury brand, per marketing consulting company Interbrand, with a brand valuation of $15.9 billion. In 2018, the brand made over $9 billion in revenue, which boosted parent company Kering's earnings to about $16.4 billion, Wall Street Journal Magazine reported

This interview is featured in WSJ Magazine's March Issue, out on newsstands February 15. 

Read the full interview at WSJ Magazine »

SEE ALSO: Louis Vuitton and Gucci are the only 2 luxury companies to consistently rank among the world's most valuable brands for the last 20 years. Here's how they grew to dominate the high-end retail sector.

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Gucci owner Kering shutters stores and halts spending in China amid coronavirus fears

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Kering Gucci store

  • Kering, one of the world's largest luxury conglomerates, is temporarily shuttering stores in China and cutting back on ad spending in the region amid coronavirus fears.
  • The French company — which owns Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga, among others — has reported a "sharp drop" in traffic and sales in China.
  • Despite the cutbacks, Kering chairman Francois-Henri Pinault says he expects the Chinese market to rebound strongly once the health scare is over. 
  • Gucci, which is Kering's biggest brand and brings in 83% of the conglomerate's recurring operating income, beat sales expectations in the fourth quarter of 2019.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Gucci-owner Kering has temporarily shut half of its stores in China, and shelved new openings and advertising campaigns there, as the coronavirus outbreak throws luxury brands into turmoil.

The French group, which also owns Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, remained upbeat about its longer-term prospects as it beat fourth-quarter sales forecasts on Wednesday.

But like rivals, it said disruptions were inevitable from an epidemic that has emptied malls and shopping streets in China, which accounts for more than a third of luxury goods sales.

"We are seeing a sharp drop in traffic and sales in mainland China," Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault said, adding shops that remained open, including in Hong Kong, were on reduced hours.

Kering is postponing store renovations and new openings as well as spending on social media and product launches in China, Pinault added.

It is also shifting inventory to other regions to make sure stocks don't pile up in China, he said, without giving an estimate for any impact from the virus on earnings.

Pinault expects the Chinese market to rebound strongly once the health emergency is over, and said Kering was ready to increase marketing spending in the second half of the year to make sure it doesn't miss out when sales start picking up again.

But for now he said online shopping was not really making up for the decline in store footfall. "The warehouses are shut. People can place orders but there are no deliveries," he said.

Tourists

Italian puffer jacket maker Moncler said this week shopper numbers at its Chinese stores had plunged 80% since the virus outbreak, while jeweler Pandora has said business in the country had ground to a halt.

Kering makes 34% of its sales in Asia Pacific, excluding Japan. Spending on its brands by Chinese customers, who have traditionally shopped with it overseas, has shifted overwhelmingly to mainland China, where the virus originated.

Entire cities in the world's second biggest economy are now shut off, flights have been cancelled and many countries are banning entry to visitors coming from China, exposing Kering and other high-end houses to a major sales hit.

Pinault said that since last week Kering had begun to see the impact of fewer Chinese tourists in Europe and the United States. In China, Kering is taking steps to protect its staff, such as paying for taxis so they can avoid public transport.

The crisis has compounded a plunge in sales in Hong Kong due to months of anti-government protests. Kering's fourth-quarter sales in the Chinese territory halved.

Nonetheless, group revenue rose 13.8% to 4.36 billion euros ($4.76 billion) in October-December, helped by demand in China prior to the virus outbreak. That equated to an 11.4% increase on a like-for-like basis, which strips out currency moves and acquisitions, beating analyst forecasts for around 10% growth.

Kering shares were up 3.5% at 14:16 GMT.

Cash Cow Gucci?

Kering now relies on Gucci for 83% of its recurring operating income.

The brand's flamboyant style, an e-commerce push and an expansion of its products in homewares and perfumes have made it one of the fastest-growing luxury labels in recent years. But analysts have questioned whether it can keep up the momentum, and whether Kering is overly-reliant on one brand.

"Whether Gucci can enter in a more steady phase of growth and turn into an attractive 'cash cow' will be key to the Kering investment case ... especially in the absence of large-scale, transformational mergers and acquisitions," Citi analysts said.

Pinault said Kering was looking at potential opportunities but was selective and did not want to buy brands that could directly rival those it already owns. Commenting on recent reports that Kering was interested in Moncler, he said there were "no active talks" with the Italian group.

Gucci beat sales expectations in the fourth quarter, with revenue up 10.5% versus a consensus forecast of around 9.5%, and it returned to growth in the United States after an advertising and diversity campaign helped reverse a blip there.

As a whole, Kering posted a 37.4% drop in net income for 2019, hit in part by a record Italian tax settlement of 1.25 billion euros linked to Gucci.

Reporting by Sarah White and Silvia Aloisi; editing by Mark Potter

SEE ALSO: Gucci is opening a Beverly Hills outpost of its Michelin-starred restaurant in Florence — here's a look inside

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Join the conversation about this story »

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A former LVMH exec says the coronavirus outbreak is a 'disaster' for luxury brands as Chinese tourism evaporates

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LVMH

  • A former LVMH chairman described this year as a "disaster" for luxury brands as the coronavirus continues to cause concern.  
  • In an interview with Yahoo Finance, industry expert Pauline Brown said that because of the outbreak luxury brands are losing out on sales from their biggest customer base – the Chinese. 
  • Luxury sales aren't only being impacted in China itself, travel bans have also curbed Chinese tourism, preventing these would-be customers from shopping elsewhere. 
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

Luxury brands should be bracing themselves for the effects of the coronavirus outbreak, according to an industry expert. 

In an interview with Yahoo Finance on Tuesday, Pauline Brown – luxury goods expert and a former chairman of LVMH North America – discussed the impact of the coronavirus epidemic on the luxury goods market and said that 2020 will be a "disaster" for many luxury brands as sales within their largest customer base is slowing down.

Chinese consumers accounted for around 35% of the total spend in the global luxury market in 2019 and 90% of the growth in global luxury goods sales, according to data from Bain. This makes them a crucial pool of customers for luxury brands to win. 

But as the virus has spread, several brands have been forced to shutter or restrict store opening hours in mainland China and cancel fashion shows (an important way to market the brand) putting pressure on luxury sales in the country. 

Several brands have highlighted a drop in sales in mainland China thanks to the spread of the virus in recent earnings calls. 

The CEO of Gucci's parent company, Kering, said the company had seen a "strong drop in traffic and in sales" in its February earnings call. And earlier this month, Burberry scrapped its guidance for the year on account of uncertainty around the coronavirus outbreak. 

"The problem with luxury is that if you don't buy it in a given quarter, it's not like you come back and all of a sudden there's excess demand the next quarter... you're not going to get the sales back," Brown told Yahoo Finance.

She added: "It's a psychological purchase and the fact that people are not feeling safe and are not feeling prone to go shopping... [well] I think it is a disaster for virtually every company in the sector."

While LVMH – the world's largest luxury conglomerate – has closed some of its stores in mainland China, its executive team kept a calm exterior when probed by an analyst about the impact of coronavirus in its most recent earnings call.

"Firstly, it would appear that this virus is not as aggressive as that that was detected back when there was the SARS outbreak in Hong Kong. Secondly, the Chinese government has reacted very strongly...and given the strength of the reaction, we can assume that their reaction will have consequences," group CFO Jean-Jacques Guiony said during the call.

But Guiony cautioned that the long-term threat of the virus is still unclear: "If it lasts a couple of months, or if it's resolved over the next two, two and a half months, then it won't be that bad," he said, but "if it were to last two years, it would be a totally different matter."

Brands shouldn't only be concerned about the sales lost in China itself, however. 

According to Bain, 70% of the luxury spending done by Chinese shoppers was done outside of China in 2019 and travel restrictions put in place by China and other governments to prevent the spread of the outbreak are curbing Chinese outbound tourism. 

Brown added that the amount of "non-essential travel" in general across the world if also being "curtailed." And as around 10% of luxury sales are done by travelers visiting airports or on cruises, the sector can expect to take a hit in sales here too.

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Gucci opens a pop-up shop in Chicago to debut new psychedelic collection and honor the recipients of its first-ever $50,000 grant

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Gucci Chicago Pop Up

Gucci debuted its new 1970s psychedelia-inspired collection, GG Psychedelic Pin, over NBA All-star weekend. The event also celebrated the first-ever recipients of the House's Gucci Changemakers North America grant that was created last year to help increase diversity in the fashion industry.

16 grant winners were announced on January 27. This included Chicago-based non-profits After School Matters and Braven. Both are organizations hoping to make an impact on the lives of Chicago youth and will receive a grant for up to $50,000 a year. 

Gucci Chicago Pop Up

After School Matters is an organization that provides after-school and summer programs for about 19,000 high school students each year. The Changemaker grant will give 16 fashion programs to 250 students this year. The programs will help students learn technical skills such as sewing, illustration, as well as garment design and construction, according to Gucci. 

Braven is a national nonprofit that helps prepare college students for employment. The grant from Gucci will help 70 first-generation students develop fashion and networking skills. This also extends to people of color and those from low socioeconomic backgrounds.

Gucci Chicago Pop Up

Both organizers from After School Matters and Braven were invited to celebrate with Gucci where they were able to meet and mingle with each other, as well as prominent guests such as filmmaker Spike Lee

Gucci Pop up shop Chicago

Women's Wear Daily (WWD) reports that the Gucci pop-up is set to close March 2. 

Gucci Gets Going

The scholarships are the latest efforts from Gucci as the brand aims to raise diversity and inclusion. In early 2019, the brand attracted controversy after it released an $890 sweater that resembled blackface. 

Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele addressed the backlash and took "full accountability" for what had happened. In an exclusive interview with WWD, Gucci President and CEO Marco Bizzarri said the incident was "not intentional" but that was "not an excuse." 

"We make mistakes, and certain are worse than others because they offend people," he told the publication. "The lack of knowledge of diversity and the consequent understanding are not at the level we expected, despite all the efforts we did inside the company in the last four years." 

Earlier this month, the New York Times (NYT) reported that the New York City Commission on Human Rights reached a settlement with Prada after the brand was forced to stop selling its Pradamalia figurines, which many said resembled the racist black face caricature Little Black Sambo. The Commission was in talks with Gucci as well. 

SEE ALSO: Gucci is opening a Beverly Hills outpost of its Michelin-starred restaurant in Florence — here's a look inside

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Gucci was the fastest-growing brand of 2019 with a valuation topping $15 billion — here are 11 of the most iconic names owned by its parent company, French luxury giant Kering.

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Gucci

Kering is one of the largest and most profitable luxury conglomerates in the world.

It was founded in 1963 as a wood and building materials company by Francois Pinault, whose family still owns it. As Business Insider previously reported, Pinault dropped out of high school when he was only 11 years old to work in his father's lumber mill, reportedly because his peers would make fun of his "poor background." Today, he has a net worth of $35.7 billion. 

Since 2005, Kering has been helmed by Pinault's son, Francois-Henri, who is a noted women's rights activist and is married to actress Salma Hayek. Francois-Henri has helped the company expand in both size and profits to help take on luxury rival LVMH — currently the largest luxury conglomerate on the planet.

Kering is known for owning brands such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen, and Yves Saint Laurent — but those are only some of its notable names. Keep reading to see the top 11 iconic brands owned by Kering, in ascending order from the year Kering acquired them. 

SEE ALSO: Louis Vuitton and Gucci are the only 2 luxury companies to consistently rank among the world's most valuable brands for the last 20 years. Here's how they grew to dominate the high-end retail sector.

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Gucci: One of Kering's mot popular brands, Gucci was 2019's fastest-growing luxury brand, with a brand valuation of $15.9 billion.

Year acquired by Kering: 1999

Type of goods: Luxury retailer

Most recognizable for: Currently led by Alessandro Michele, the modern Gucci era is arguably "camp"— defined by Susan Sontag in a famous 1964 essay as a "love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration." The brand recently released a capsule collection with Disney to celebrate the year of the rat for Chinese New Year. 



Yves Saint Laurent: Named after its legendary founder, Saint Laurent has become one of the top luxury brands in the world. L'Oreal owns the beauty license to the brand's sizable and reputable cosmetics line.

Year acquired by Kering: 1999

Type of goods: Luxury retailer

Most recognizable for: Yves Saint Laurent's eponymous fashion label was one of the first to make suits fashionable for women. Today, the brand is known for both men's and women's wear, and recently, actor Rami Malek was announced as the face of the brand's Spring/Summer campaign. 



Bottega Veneta: One of the top Italian fashion houses, Bottega Veneta is known for many signature pieces including the Intrecciato clutch, pictured below. Another signature piece is The Pouch, the fastest-selling bag in the brand's history.

Year acquired by Kering: 2001

Type of goods: Luxury retailer

Most recognizable for: Bottega Veneta is a popular Italian fashion house, founded in 1996. Current CEO Daniel Lee has, as Ella Alexander of Harper's Bazaar wrote in December 2019, made Bottega Veneta "one of fashion's most popular brands." In 2019, The Pouch became the fastest-selling bag in the brand's history



Balenciaga: Perhaps best known for its "dad" shoes, Balenciaga is one of the most popular luxury brands in the world. The brand garnered attention not just for its chunky shoes, but also for its triangle duffle bags, which run upward of $1,000.

Year acquired by Kering:2001

Type of goods: Luxury retailer

Most recognizable for: The luxury brand was founded in 1919 by Cristobal Balenciaga, and has since become one of the most notable brands in the world. It is perhaps best known for its clunky "dad" shoes, as previously reported by Business Insider



Alexander McQueen: The label was named after its legendary founder, Alexander McQueen. Both the label and its founding designer are regarded as being among the most innovative forces in fashion.

Year acquired by Kering: 2001

Type of goods: Luxury retailer

Most recognizable for: Alexander McQueen was founded in 1992 by its eponymous designer, who was often cited as being one of the most innovative and impactful designers of the early 2000s. Tragically, he died by suicide in 2010. But his brand lives on as a leading luxury house. 



Brioni: Known for finely tailored suits, Brioni is one of the top menswear companies in the world.

Year acquired by Kering: 2011

Type of goods: Menswear 

Most recognizable for: Brioni is one of the top menswear companies in the world. The brand is known for its finely tailored suits, and earlier this year, tapped Brad Pitt as the face of its Spring/Summer 2020 campaign.



Girard-Perregaux: One of the world's oldest luxury watch manufacturers, Girard-Perregaux is known for its Tourbillon bridge watch, which is often referred to as a "masterpiece."

Year acquired by Kering: 2011

Type of goods: Luxury watches

Most recognizable for: Girard-Perregaux is known for its Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges— a 152-year-old "complication" watch, often referred to as a "masterpiece." Founded in 1791 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Girard-Perregaux is one of the oldest watch-making manufacturers in the world. 



Ulysse Nardin: Known for its marine chronometer watches, Ulysse Nardin is one of the most celebrated watch companies in the world, having received numerous medals and certificates of performance.

Year acquired by Kering:2014

Type of goods: Luxury watches

Most recognizable for: Founded in 1846 by its eponymous founder, who was 23 years old at the time, Ulysse Nardin is known for marine chronometer watches. Throughout the past century, its watches have won numerous awards, and, by 1975, the Neuchâtel Observatory reported that the company had obtained 4,324 certificates of performance, including 10 gold medals. In 2016, the brand celebrated its 170th anniversary.



Pomellato: One of the best-known Italian jewelry companies, Pomellato is famous for its colorful gemstones and jewels.

Year acquired by Kering: 2013

Type of goods: High-end jewelry

Most recognizable for: Pomellato is known for its colorful jewels, most notably rings which can run upward of $1,000. One of the most expensive rings listed on its website is a rose gold ring with diamonds, which would set one back $6,000. Others include stones such as blue topaz, rose quartz, white topaz and treated black diamonds



Boucheron: One of the world's oldest watch houses, Boucheron has been located in Paris' prestigious Place Vendôme since 1893.

Year acquired by Kering: 2000

Type of goods: Jewelry and watch house

Most recognizable for: Boucheron is one of the top luxury jewelry and watch houses in the world. The brand was founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron and has been located in Paris' prestigious Place Vendôme since 1893. The brand currently has nearly 500,000 followers on Instagram, and in 2018, celebrated its 160th anniversary. 



Qeelin: A notable Chinese jewelry brand which counts Wendi Murdoch as a fan, Qeelin was Kering's first acquisition in China.

Year acquired by Kering:2012

Type of goods: High-end jewelry 

Most recognizable for: Founded in 2004 by entrepreneurs Dennis Chan and Guillaume Brochard, Queelin is headquartered in Hong Kong, with several boutiques in mainland China and across Europe. When Kering bought the jewelry retailer in 2012, it marked the conglomerate's first acquisition in China. 



Prada just reached a settlement after its 2018 blackface controversy that'll mandate 'racial equity training' for employees — including the C-suite in Milan. But for some, that's not enough.

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Prada runway

  • Three black entrepreneurs and professionals with ties to the fashion industry spoke to Business Insider about Prada's settlement with the New York City Commission on Human Rights
  • As part of the settlement, the commission instructed Prada to work toward diversifying its workforce, in addition to mandating that Prada's Milan-based executives and New York-based employees undergo sensitive and "racial equity" training, The New York Times' Vanessa Friedman reported.
  • Stylist and fashion editor Mecca James-Williams told Business Insider that the black community still "need[s] these acts of non-discrimination" in order to ensure they're treated fairly in work environments.
  • In addition, entrepreneur, social activist, and Uber Head of Strategy & Leadership Meena Harris said that brands need to prioritize being more inclusive and culturally aware.
  • Meanwhile, former Vogue Digital Marketing & Sales Planner Shelby Ivey Christie questioned whether Prada will diversify its executive branch, or if they will only diversify lower-to-mid-level positions.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

In January 2019, civil rights lawyer Chinyere Eziefiled a complaint with the New York City Commission on Human Rights regarding Prada's Pradamalia figurines, which she said resembled the racist blackface caricature Little Black Sambo. On February 4, Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times reported that Prada had reached a settlement.

The commission agreed with Ezie, and as part of the settlement, Prada will appoint a diversity and inclusion officer at a director level, while all New York-based employees will have to undergo sensitivity and "racial equity" training, according to Friedman at the Times. Prada's Milan-based executives will also undergo training, since the commission determined that decisions made at Prada headquarters in Italy have repercussions in the United States. 

The brand also established a Diversity and Inclusion Advisory Council, which, per the terms of the agreement, is required to last for at least six years. The council is co-chaired by Ava DuVernay, and its creation was announced in February 2019, shortly after the Pradamalia controversy arose.

Woke up on the morning of our fourth birthday to some news about our namesake @prada . The “Pradamalia” collection, produced in collaboration with @2x4inc , features fantasy “lab-created” animals. According to a press release about the collab, the creatures mix up the codes of the house into their features. Many are comparing "Otto", a resulting mutation of one of Prada's oldest mascots, the monkey, to Little Sambo, a children's book character from 1899, who exemplified the pickaninny style of blackface caricature, though other examples from as early as 1769 can be found. The exaggerated stereotypes propagated racism freely back then, but it's apparent that the legacy of the harmful imagery still affects how we contextualize racism today. This is surprising from Prada, who's known (at least recently) for the inclusivity of their casting, propelling then unknown models like Anok Yai and Jourdan Dunn into near supermodel status...not to mention casting Naomi Campbell in that 1994 campaign at a time when it was generally deemed "risky" to cast people of color in international luxury campaigns. Recently, they mounted "The Black Image Corporation", an exhibition highlighting the importance and legacy of black creators in American publishing and photography, in both Milan and Miami. Representation is important, but understanding how to navigate the nuances of how the world perceives racism is even more so. One thing is pretty clear though...given recent scandals, luxury brands operating on a massive global scale need more systems in place to avoid controversies like this. A suggestion for now: more diversity on a corporate level for positions that actually hold power in decision making and brand imaging. Prada issued a swift apology on twitter and are in the process of removing the products from display and sale, but no mention on Instagram yet. Dieters, chime in with your thoughts! • Source: Chinyere Ezie via Twitter (@ lawyergrrl) • #prada #blackface #littlesambo #retailproblems #retaildisplay #soho #nyc #dietprada

A post shared by Diet Prada ™ (@diet_prada) on Dec 14, 2018 at 11:50am PST on

This settlement has made waves in the industry and is one of the first major examples of a government intervening in fashion — luxury houses, at least, are typically left to police themselves. Importantly, this settlement has the ability to set a precedent in terms of what might happen to other luxe brands that find themselves embroiled in race-based controversies.

Speaking with Business Insider, three black professionals, entrepreneurs, and fashion gurus gave their thoughts on the Prada settlement and discussed what changes they hope it brings to the luxury sector at large — and why government oversight is still sorely needed in corporate spaces. 

"It's gotten to a point where it has to be [this] way"

Shelby Ivey Christie, former digital marketing and sales planner at Vogue, has worked in corporate fashion for most of her professional life. She told Business Insider that it was "unfortunate" that the government had to step in and tell Prada to diversify their workforce, but that "it has to be that way." 

"That itself speaks to a gaping hole in the industry — that a government agency had to step in and say 'Hey, you need to address this and we have to impose rules and regulations for you to address this,'" she said. "Do I think it should be that way? No. But my goodness, it's gotten to a point where it has to be that way."

Miuccia Prada Runway

Ultimately, Christie hopes that people of color benefit from the Prada settlement — but she is wary of not only what type of working environment these new hires will be heading into, but what positions they will actually hold.

She fears that the new hires will simply be viewed as "diversity hires" brought on to appease a settlement, and that they will be placed and stagnated in lower-to-mid-level ranks in the company, rather than in leadership positions where their voices can have equity.  

"Are they going into an environment like affirmative action, where everyone's treating them like [they're] only here because this agency came in and told us you have to be here?" she said. "[And] what is the level of diversity? Is it going to be entry-level and mid-level, or is it really going to be bringing someone in who will have decision-making [abilities]?"

Prada

Christie also noted that settlements shouldn't be the reason people hire diversity in the first place and that bringing in a chief diversity officer — or, in Prada's case, a diversity and inclusion officer — shouldn't just be implemented as a strategy to "mitigate bad press." 

"The culture inside of the company is going to have to be addressed so that [new talent are] going into a workplace where they're really being received and treated as valued members of the team," she said. "Can fashion begin to hire black talent and POC talent proactively instead of as a reaction to some kind of crisis?"

"Racial equity training is not enough"

Meena Harris— who is Uber's head of strategy and leadership, in addition to being a social activist and the founder of the Phenomenal Woman Action Campaign, a non-profit that sells merch to support causes for women of color — pointed out that brands such as Prada and Gucci have been warned before about selling racially insensitive products. In 2019, Gucci was embroiled in a similar controversy and eventually pulled a sweater that many said resembled "blackface."Gucci Blackface

Harris said that continuous missteps with fashion brands show that the industry is not "prioritizing" being culturally aware, and that it was "unfortunate" Prada needed government intervention in order to become more diverse and inclusive. 

"I think about the fact that if we did not have these things like the Human Rights commission —  and [a commission] that is active enough and has enough power to [implement changes] — then what would happen?" Harris said. "Racial equity training is not enough ... it's about making sure that you are bringing in a multitude of perspectives — and diverse perspectives — to inform the work that you do."

gucci

Harris echoed Christie's thoughts that brands need to make more of a commitment toward enacting change, and added that a lack of cultural awareness is no longer acceptable. 

"Adding more black models is not enough," Harris said. "And once these folks are actually at the table, they can't just be table dressing. They need to have decision-making authority. There must be a culture of inclusivity where they feel comfortable to speak up, to voice concerns, and perhaps even rock the boat when necessary."

"We need these acts of non-discrimination"

Mecca James-Williams, a stylist and style editor at The Zoe Report, said that companies need to take responsibility for the choices they make and that settlements and laws like these let them know that certain types of behavior are no longer acceptable. 

"You're setting a standard and you're starting a conversation," she said. "I do think outside of laws, there has to be an ethics committee, a culture committee that really can educate different [people], because we all come from different walks of life. We all have different cultural boundaries that other cultures don't understand. So I think there has to be ethics involved with the law."

James-Williams also addressed concerns, such as those voiced in Friedman's New York Times report, that governments shouldn't have the ability to impede upon "freedom of expression" in the fashion industry. James-James-Williams acknowledged that allowing governments to say what is and what isn't a proper manner of expression can be a "double-edged sword" for an industry that prides itself on creative expression.

Sometimes, however, that's necessary. 

"[Black people] need these acts of non-discrimination," she said. "We need them or we'll be stifled completely."

SEE ALSO: Louis Vuitton and Gucci are the only 2 luxury companies to consistently rank among the world's most valuable brands for the last 20 years. Here's how they grew to dominate the high-end retail sector.

DON'T MISS: The latest "it" bag isn't a bag — it's a pouch. The wealthy can't get enough of it.

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